The Negev, Israel

Mitzpe Ramon
By Moses

The day started out as normal, a typical Friday, a clear blue sky, and lots of sun. The weather in the Negev was predictable, especially in May. The only difference between today and the past 4 months was a planned trip into the Mitzpe Ramon Canyon. Mitch, Ben and Sammy had planned this since Mitch's return last month. "This place is incredible, "he'd said "and the sex wasn't bad either" fringe benefits of having a brief fling with a Kibbutznik.
It was 7:00 AM and they were in the cheder ochal gathering the food they'd need for the campout. This being a 3 day , 2 night excursion, the plan was to be on top of Har Ardon for dinner.
"Should I bring my inhaler?" asked Sammy. Ben cracked up. "You're in the desert in Israel moron. It hasn't rained in 3 weeks."
"Bring it" piped in Mitch. "Remember Beersheva?" Ben started howling again. "Meet us at the bustop. " Mitch continued, "and hurry, the bus is coming in 10 minutes."
The bus came promptly at 7:15AM and the 3 young men boarded.
Mitch being the oldest at 30 years of age had taken the role of older brother to Ben, who at 19 was seemingly comfortable in every situation, yet didn't realize he'd be capable of achievement outside of his parents waning interests. Sammy, mind you, had his own schtick. With a heavy speech impedement on the S's and his asthma inhaler at the ready, Sammy was a sight to see when the humidex reached 5%.
At 10:50 AM the bus pulled in for a pitstop. the passengers headed off into the restaurant for a quick coffee and smoke break from the ride.
"You said we'd be travelling through Mitzpe at around 11 Mitch." said Ben.
"Around there." Mitch replied. "Are we there?" asked Ben.
"No." said Mitch.
The bus headed back on the road and began a descent into some beautiful desertland, where
the rocks seemed almost phospherous, not the stereotypical sand plains that one would associate with 'desert'. After about 10 minutes of seemingly enjoying the ride Mitch turned pale.
"This looks familiar." Mitch sternly announced.
"What do mean familiar? asked Sammy.
"This looks like the canyon." Mitch said, as his face went even whiter.
After the bus driver explained to Sammy that they'd stopped in the town of Mitzpe for their coffee, he let them off, pointing in a general direction with the 3 gladiators looking somewhat defeated.
"Your joking." Ben almost cried as the bus cleared out of sight.
"Do you know where we are ?" Sammy asked Mitch.
"I think we're in the canyon." Mitch said, regaining his colour.
Ben was sitting on the ground. "We're going to die." he said, staring into what seemed like miles of disparity in every direction.
"I think we go that way." Mitch asserted, staring at a beat up path off the main road that wasn't
meant for any form of motorized travel.
"We're going to die." Ben muttered again.
As they travelled inward, away from the highway, a mountain inside the canyon began to visualize. "That's Har Ardon!" exclaimed Mitch.
Guessing they had about 13 kilometers before they reached the foothill of the mountain, Mitch decided to let the journey take it's course.
As the sun beat down at roughly 90 degrees fahrenheit, the heat was the least of their problems. Mitch had assured his companions that there would be a Bedoin camp somewhere in the canyon where they'd be able to replenish their water supply. The problem with 'somewhere' was that if they approached Har Ardon from the wrong direction, they'd be left with an additional 15 kilometers to travel as they'd have to walk around the mountain. In addition Ben and Sammy weren't exactly confidant in Mitch's judgement to this point.
"How many litres of water do you have left? " asked Ben.
"Four." replied Mitch.
"I'm still working on my first bottle." said Sammy. "and I've still got the 2 bottles in reserve."
This added up to 3 litres, as the norm for large size plastic pop bottles were only 1.5 litres
compared to the North American 2.
Ben looked at his watch, it was now 1:30pm. "We haven't even covered half the distance
to the mountain." Ben paused, then continued "I only bought 2 bottles."
"Don't worry, we'll be able to share if it comes down to it." Mitch said, as he came to a stop.
"The Bedoin camp should come into view in a couple of kilometers." he offered, trying to reassure the others, and himself.
Ben and Sammy both took off their rucksacks following Mitch's lead. "Throw me a green pepper Mitch." Sammy ate about three of them a day on the kibbutz, and created his infamous
green peeper sandwich, known only by those English speaking members of the Ulpan.
As the Kibbutz was run communally, food trays were always left accessible to the Kibbutzniks in the cheder ochel. The food, mind you, wasn't exactly corned beed and kishka. Vegetables , bread, and occasionally tasteless cheese were on the 24 hour menu. Sammy enjoyed his green pepper sandwichs to no end.
"Your a boner Mitch." Ben was still slightly pissed at their predicament.
"I know where we are." Mitch answered.
Sammy was laughing at this point. "So you think we'll make it?"
After a few more bites they continued their walk.
The Ulpan was a 6 month learning program for Jews abroad. Generally speaking, it was used by the Israeli government to assimilate Jewish immigrants into Israel. Teaching the people on the Ulpan Hebrew 3 days a week, and working them 3 days a week. The large number of Russian immigrants were given temporary homes, which could lead to permanant residence. Mind you there were Americans, Ethiopans, Brits, Canadians and people from elsewhere. Being a large Kibbutz, Revivim housed and fed about 40 Ulpaners per term along with their 500 kibbutz members (known as Kibbutzniks), and 40 volunteers. The kibbutzim was an integral part in this form of education as it displayed a quiet lifestyle that made the urban centres of Jerusalem and Tel Aviv that much more of an experience, when visiting.
The Bedoin camp slowly came into view, displaying only two tents from a distance. The tension between Ben and Mitch dissipated. Relieved Ben confidantly took lead, and as they neared Ben approached a figure in front of the first tent. As he came nearer he realized it was a woman. A man from the second tent came storming out and ran towards him.
"Assoore Liddabeir! Assoore!!!" The man cried.
Not able to speak or understand much Hebrew, the meaning was lost on Ben.
"Slicha Adon." Sammy said catching up and involving himself in the altercation.
As Sammy smooth talked the Bedoin in broken Hebrew, Ben quietly asked Mitch "What just
happened there?"
"I don't speak Hebrew, but I do know that you never speak to a Bedoins' wife." Mitch answered.
Sammy stepped back and informed his friends that they were welcome in the Bedoins' tent.
"What was he yelling at me?" asked Ben.
"He said it was forbidden to speak. Don't you know you're not supposed to talk with a Bedoins' wife." Sammy replied.
The Bedoin man sat his 3 guests and served tea.
Being somewhere in his early 60's, the man was wiry, seemingly in good shape, albeit showing only a handful of teeth. It was well known that Bedoin men were married to more than one woman. The Bedoins' wife did not partake in this visit.
Notorious for being extremely receptive to the people that came to them. The man introduced himself as Asaf. After the introductions Asaf asked (gesturing) if the boys would like to hear
some music. Nods of acceptance brought Ben, Mitch, and Sammy a first look at a Bedoins' guitar.
With only two strings, this guitar played only 16 octaves, or so. The playing by their host was advanced, as music was an important part of Bedoin culture.
Realizing that they had only about 3 hours of clear daylight to make the trip up Har Ardon, Mitch announced their intentions of leaving, to the others. As it was courtesy to give a gift to a Bedoin that takes one into his tent, Mitch pulled out a Snickers bar and handed it to the elder statesman.
"Atta rotzeh lissachek!!" the Bedoins' blood was starting to boil again.
Not realizing what the Bedoin was saying, Mitch pulled out a bag of peanuts, and again offered to the man.
"Atta rotzeh lissachek!!!" this Bedoin was now just inches from Mitch, and getting closer.
"The man has no teeth Mitch. What are you a moron." Ben laughed through his words.
Literally escaping with their lives (and thankful for replenishing their water supply before entering the tent), they distanced themselves at about two and a half km from the foothill of the mountain, with about an hour and a half to hike up the mountain.
The two kilometers passed quickly, and as they entered towards the mountain, Mitch became concerned.
"We'll need some wood."
"What!?" Ben exclaimed.
"When we get to the top we'll need wood to make a fire. " answered Mitch.
"You're crazy you know that Mitch."
Sammy was laughing hysterically at Bens' remark.
Mitch headed off to gather wood from the nearby bushes. Sammy and Ben were both laughing at this point.
"You're paranoid Mitch! " Ben yelled "There has to be wood on top."
"It's not going to hurt though." said Sammy.
Ben sat while the others gathered wood for their hike.
After about 10 minutes Ben looked upon his compadres now carrying about 5 pounds of branches each.
"Let's go." Mitch said.
They began their climb. The accent was steep, but this was no mountain from Switzerland, even with Sammy holding branches in both hands they expected to on Har Ardon by 5:30pm.
Sammy was increasingly separating himself, he reached the upper plateau first. As his view of Mitch and Ben was distanced, he felt exhilerated. "Hurry up, you've got to see this!" he yelled.
From the top of the mountain, the crater was exposed. Calcium deposits exhibiting yellows, reds, blues in the earth became apparent. The sight-lines extended to expose the inversion of a mountain that was once there. "Hey!! You've gotta get a picture of this Sammy! " cried Mitch.
Being nominated pre-trip for the photography duties, Sammy not only had the best camera, but the sharpest eye. As the shots were taken, Ben started laughing. "You fucking morons, do you think there's enough firewood up here." he asked rhetorically.
Looking around the plateau, the exact same dispersement of shrubbs existed, as that from the base of the foothill. "Let's set up camp, it's overcast." said Mitch as he threw his rucksack and branches to the ground.
"It's not going to rain schmuck, it's May." retorted Ben.
As the thunder struck it was now Mitch's turn to laugh. "You little wise ass, check the caves for goat shit."
"I hear the Bedoin that travel here protect their herds in the winters. They use the caves to shield the young kids from the wind, " Mitch continued. "We have about an hour to set the tents before it starts pissing."
The rain came within the hour and the three sat sheltered sharing some stories over a few Noblesse
and some water. They grew an affinity towards one another. There was no way not to be vulnerable, male bonding at its’ finest.